Pursuing the 1%

Let’s face it; much like wines of Oregon, the origins of Washington Wine can be predominantly traced to one specific region in the state. In Washington this area is identified as east of the Cascade Mountain range. In fact, eight of the State’s nine official American Viticultural Areas (AVA’s) are located in this general area. These include the Columbia Gorge, Columbia Valley, Yakima Valley, Red Mountain area, Walla Walla Valley, Horse Heaven Hills area, Wahluke Slope, and Rattlesnake Hills regions. Data as recent as 2006 suggests these eastern regions grow 99% of Washington’s wine grapes. The one western AVA you ask? The Puget Sound Region.

Why bore you with mind-numbing Washington Wine facts? I have a purpose!

Take a stroll down any wine aisle advertised as “Washington Wines”, and the number of varietals with “Columbia Valley”, and “Yakima Valley” roots can be overpowering. I’ll argue with no regrets, that wines from these regions are what placed Washington on the world wine map, and as such, a majority of the press and publications are well deserved. I, however, have a different mission.

Prior to Thanksgiving, and as early as Halloween, I searched all my usual hot spots for a wine which classified as an estate grown wine of Puget Sound, the 1 % of Washington Wine I’d like to think. At Safeway, no luck. At QFC, no luck. At the Purple Café and Wine Bar, no luck.

My bitter pursuit of the 1% taught me two things. First, my wine knowledge surpasses that of the local wine stewards at my local markets (yes, I’ve graduated from nearly snooty wino to snooty wino), and secondly, any consumption of such estate grown wines, will more than likely require a ferry ride across Puget Sound, where most seem to originate. Before I divulge into my most recent (non Puget Sound AVA) delectable treat, let me first give space to those wineries neither appreciated by my markets, nor their stewards.

Bainbridge Island Vineyards, Black Diamond Winery, Carpentery Creek Winery, Eagle Haven Winery, Glacier Peak Winery, Hoodsport Winery, Lopez Island Vineyards, Mt. Baker Winery, Perennial Vintners, San Juan Vineyards, Vashon Island Winery, & Whidbey Island Vineyards. In months to come, look for entries relating to varietals produced by these wineries. I’ll admit some reluctance in opting for these lesser known wineries, but look forward to the adventure that awaits.

On to a more soothing subject, I recently opted for a psychedelic red, pertaining to a more than funky mood I’d obtained while searching for the 1% representatives. You could say I was duped by clever marketing, highlighted by an extremely plain label with black writing stating “House Wine”. The price caught my eye at less than $15.00, however, the kicker was it’s noted combination of four of Washington’s five most prominent red varietals, notably, Cabernet Sauvignon 54%, Merlot 30%, Syrah 11%, Malbec 3% and Cabernet Franc 2%. The winery, “The Magnificent Wine Company” states it is produced and bottled in Prosser, WA. Grapes are grown in the Columbia Valley.

The nose offered a smooth collection lavender and floral currents. As expected, the wine tasted predominantly of its Cab and Merlot distinction, yet the true winner in this “House Wine”, was the Syrah, offering a powerfully flavorful and full-bodied complement. There was no evidence of oak barreled scents, rather a velvety application of peppered enchantment.

New Labeling Requirements?

The Alcohol and Tobacco Trade Tax Bureau (TTB) has been mulling over an issue for a few years now that could have significant impact on the wine industry. The proposal is driven by a number of consumer groups and would require nutritional labels on alcohol beverages, including, of course -- wine. This proposal has been in public comment period since spring of 2005 and will more than likely come to resolution soon, and my gut is telling me that the decision will be on the side of nutritional labels.

I don't know about you, but I don't really care how many calories are in a glass / bottle / magnum of wine. It wouldn't bother me if it were on the label either, but a number of smaller wineries have objections to the proposal due to the impact on their business. Not only would it require a redesign of labels, but at a cost of $250 per release for testing, it could be costly for wineries with small production and distribution.

Keep your eye on this one, and if you are a geek like me and want more information on the proposed changes, check out www.regulations.gov, Docket ID: TTB-2007-0062.

Apex (II) Cellars 2004 Late Harvest Semillon

*Drew made a post about this wine on August 31st that I didn't realize until after I made this post. His thoughts and my thoughts are similar, yet different, check them out.

The Thanksgiving Holiday is behind us here at The Oregon Wine Blog, and as most of us work in Educational settings, the end of the Fall Term is also here. As my institution prepares to head into the home stretch after a short interlude, I decided I needed to open a new bottle of wine to end my 4 day "break." Tonight, I broke open a bottle from one of my shipments from Willamette Valley wine club.

This evening it is an Apex Cellars II 2004 Late Harvest Semillon. Apex Cellars is in the Yakima Valley of South-Central Washington State. It is both a vineyard and type of wine (Semillon) that are foreign to me, so I had to do some research on it. You will notice the "II" after "Apex", and the website reads, "Our goal with Apex II is to offer you an exceptional value—wines that are almost as impressive as Apex, but cost considerably less. Apex II wines are perfect for everyday enjoyment." This statement could lead someone to believe that the glass of wine I am about to enjoy may not be as good as a Late Harvest Semillon from Apex (or any wines from the "II" label for that matter). Let's not kid ourselves - the "Apex II" label is for those grapes not good enough to make the "Apex" label.

The Semillon is a grape that has a golden-skin and is used most frequently in making dry, sweet wines. Worldwide, it has been grown mostly in France, Australia/New Zealand, Chile, and South Africa. The tasting notes for this particular wine are, again as per the website, "Succulently sweet with opulent flavors of honey, apricots, and pears, this charming wine displays an unusually seductive floral scent, especially of honeysuckle. The luscious sweetness is balanced by refreshing acidity."

I have to admit that I was very excited about this wine, initially. It had been literally staring are me for about 10 days on my counter. So this evening I caved and opened the golden-copper seal and it's black plastic cork - I was like a kid...at Christmas...ugh (those of you who know me, know what that means). I was delighted by the this wonderful nose - very sweet citrus and a light alcohol combination hit you initially, not in a bad way.

There is a fairly decent coat on the glass when swirled, yet still less than I would have thought for a Late Harvest (with 9.5 % alcohol by volume). Then it came time for the taste...and I have to admit that I was less then impressed. It doesn't have an overly sweet taste that you would expect from a Late Harvest, but there was something about this wine that I didn't find very appealing. For my palate, I can actually taste the alcohol, which I find to be pretty rare. For me, the taste is this combination of lightly citric beverage that has a lingering alcohol "flavor"/aftertaste. I continue sipping and am wondering if I am missing something, but I can honestly say I don't think I am.

This is definitely a drier wine, but there is this odd something that lingers in the mouth that reminds you that you have/are consuming alcohol in a way that I have rarely experienced with other wines. So overall, I would just have to say this wine isn't a good one, but I would be interested in hearing what others' thoughts are.

2006 Sweet Cheeks Esate Pinot Gris

Sometimes decisions made on a whim yield surprising results! In this case, the result was an award-winning Pinot Gris to go along with the previously reviewed Riesling from Sweet Cheeks Winery in Crow, Oregon.

As with many Gris's, citrus notes dominate the nose and palette of this specimen. However, it is the combination of citrus, melon, acidity, and a hint of fig that define this wine from others of the same varietal. The finish is clean and refreshing with a citrus-mineral linger.

My first paring with this lovely wine was a artichoke jalapeno spread served prior to Thanksgiving-a very good combo. This wine was also used to make the sausage dressing for the same occasion, and then paired with a crab salad. Both outstanding.

Overall, this wine is a solid choice at $15. Below I have noted some of the awards earned by this white gem.

Cheers!

Best Pick Riesling for Oregon Wine Press
Winner 2007 Oyster Wine Competition
Gold Medal Winner West Coast Wine competition
Gold Medal Winner Northwest Wine Summit
Gold Medal Winner Astoria Wine competition
Oregon Press Pinot Gris Best Pick