Taste Washington's Dirty Little Secret: The Vineyards

This year was my first Taste Washington! experience, well, primarily because it's my first year back in Washington after five years in Oregon.  Makes sense, eh?  Clive was well-versed in the wonderfulness of this particular event, so I was pretty stoked to have the opportunity to attend and see what the hub-bub was all about.  I spent many days agonizing over my approach to the event.  With over 200 wineries and 60 restaurants, there was no way I could come even close to tackling them all lest I stumble out the door never to be seen again.  Should I take the Disneyland approach and start in the back corner of the room, opposite the crowds?  Should I only visit wineries that I had never tried before?  Should I connect with old winery cronies such as Heather from Terra Blanca, Neil from Cooper, Frank, from Picazo 7Seventeen, and Wendi from Col Solare?  Halfway through my deliberation, my friend Paul agreed to attend with me so my mission was clear:  show him the best that Washington wine has to offer.  It certainly wouldn't be hard with the cast of characters at the event.

Gametime came...and Paul couldn't make it.  Don't worry, friends, he wasn't just blowing me off for booze and hookers; he legitimately couldn't make it so it was time to rethink the strategy.  As I flipped through the brochure, a section caught my eye:  TASTE! The Vineyards.

Hmm, tell me more oh magical brochure of wine.

"Try a new approach to wine tasting.  This area is organized by vineyard, so you can compare and contrast the wines that several different wineries have produced from a single source," it whispered seductively into my ear.

Klipsun, Sagemoor, Tapteil, Upland...damn, these jokers weren't fooling around.

A new game plan was solidified; taste a variety of wines from the best vineyards in the state.  Swirl, sniff, sip, spit, and move on to the next.  Maybe swallow a little every second or third taste.  Have I mentioned how tough of a life it is to be a wine blogger?

Why is this Taste Washington's dirty little secret?  It's actually not dirty at all, but the secret is that there were no lines whatsoever in the vineyard area of the event, despite being near the front of the room.  While every Tom, Dick, and Sally were elbowing their way to get a sip of the awesome Betz Syrah, I sashayed right on up to the Klipsun table and had the place to myself.

Klipsun, Chinook Indian Jargon for Sunset, is one of the preeminent vineyards in the Red Mountain AVA.  You may know it as one of the primary sources of fruit for Quilceda Creek's run of 100-point Cabs back in the early 2000's.  From my count, at least 37 wineries used their fruit for the 2009 vintage, all of them notable in one way or another.  I had the opportunity to taste 5 different Klipsun wines at this event, all were amazing in different ways.  Don't ask me what they were, I didn't take notes and swallowed more than I should have.  Point being...awesome interaction with the pourer, awesome wine...no crowd.  Next I saddled over to Sagemoor, then Tapteil.  Same experience.

Interested in another protip for Taste Washington 2012?  Winery Association Tables.  Again, smaller crowds, more wine.  I spent more than my fair share of the event at the Red Mountain AVA Alliance and Horse Heaven Hills Wine Growers tables.  That was when I wasn't chowing down on some great food with Picazo7Seventeen or these awesome little mini-cupcakes from The Yellow Leaf Cupcake Co.  The Pancakes n' Bacon cupcake is to die for, no joke.  

By the end of the event, I was well satiated and did have the opportunity to connect with Heather, Neil, Frank, and Wendi.  I even got to skulk around with Clive a bit, and friends of the Blog - Andrea and Craig - showed up before I left.  I'd had my fill of wine by that time, as you can tell by my wine lips.  After reading this are you sad that you missed Taste Washington?  Well, don't fret Oregon friends, because I have a deal for you!  Taste Washington is coming to you...Portland style.  Sunday, May 1.  Do it.

Red Mountain Revelation

Blogger types came to Washington in droves this past weekend and went to Walla Walla for three days of the Wine Bloggers Conference 2010. I followed a good deal of it online and from the sounds of it, they had an amazing time. On Sunday the lucky ones, or the smart ones, whichever, hopped on a bus out of Walla Walla and came to Washington's most unique AVA, Red Mountain. Gwynne and I were invited out by Keith, ReNae and Heather from Terra Blanca to take in the event as well.

What happened over the next five to six hours was a crash course in the exquisite terroir that is unique to Red Mountain. The Red Mountain AVA Alliance had organized a tour de force of what makes the soils, the vines, and by extension the wines, so incredible.

The education in the importance of 'Place,' and that Red Mountain is indeed so different, began at Col Solare, the beautiful estate winery that is a partnership between Chateau Ste. Michelle and the Antinori family of Italy. Col Solare makes one wine; it's damn good. Kevin Corliss, head winemaker at Chateau Ste. Michelle, talked about making a decision to move to Red Mountain for the partnership between the Antinori family and Chateau Ste. Michelle. Based on the wines that were already coming out of Red Mountain, particulary with regard to tannin structure, the move was a natural choice. Marcus Notaro then took participants through a tasting of the 2006 Col Solare, which was what you've come to expect from this wine. It was an experience of leather, tobacco and deep mahogany. As a counterpoint to the 2006, Marcus had us barrel taste the 2009 Cabernet. This really tripped me up; the nose was like a flashback to the old Strawberry Shortcake paraphernalia, a bright strawberry punch in the nose (No, I didn't own any Strawberry Shortcake stuff, ahem...) and the wine was a mouthful of tannins.


From there Dr. Alan Busacca, geologist and owner of the Alma Terra wines made in concert with Robert Smasne, gave us a quick geology lesson. The bloggers had already heard about the Missoula floods that formed all of Washington's fertile wine growing regions. Alan focused on the variety and diversity of Red Mountain soil, caused by the turbulent eddies over the top of Red Mountain, which stuck up towards some of the shallower levels of the flood. During that flood these changing currents and flows made for differing deposits and tons of various soil ranges, leaving Red Mountain, acre per acre, with greater soil diversity than any AVA in the Northwest.

From Col Solare the bloggers were broken into groups of 5 to 8 and led through the vineyards down to the Hedges Estate. Along the way folks walked beside Red Mountain legends and experts like Jim Holmes, Ryan Johnson, Chris Upchurch and Dick Boushey. I was with Dick Boushey's group and he said, "well these two goofy engineers decided 'let's give it a try' and they struck grape growing gold." After the clif notes version of Red Mountain history, Dick went on to explain that the real challenge for the future of Red Mountain is going to be irrigation. This part of the state only gets 6 inches of rain a year and that allows for a variety of soil not seen in Walla Walla, for example, which gets at least twice as much rain. It becomes difficult to keep the grapes alive without good water options. (Only days after this did Red Mountain get really big news.)

Arriving at Hedges Estate bloggers were greeted by Christophe Hedges, who looks a little like Daniel Craig, you know, the blonde James Bond guy. Christophe said that Hedges Estate firmly believes three things: 1) scores have had an influence on the wines being made; 2) the idea of place is more important than brand because brands will die out, but place will remain even once we're all gone; and 3) the concept and proliferation of non-estate vineyards have shown that people have lost control of place.
I got the first two, and am apt to agree with him; the last, I don't know that I necessarily agree with, and not so sure I even entirely get. We proceeded inside the Hedges Estate, which is beautiful and very French-like. Inside we tasted four different Red Mountain wines against wines of a similar (and high) caliber from the world's famous growing regions; Napa Valley, Cote Rotie and Barossa Valley. This was a great way to show the distinction of Red Mountain terroir and it was interesting to taste the differences and similarities between the varietals.



After the stop at Hedges we made our way to what is perhaps the most famous and sought after vineyard in the winemaking state of Washington: Ciel Du Cheval. Jim Holmes, one of the "goofy engineers" who originally founded of Red Mountain (and who, with John Williams, founded Kiona Winery) met us there. Jim explained the plans he and John had, and how things have changed so much. Jim talked about the wines that come from the various blocks of Ciel Du Cheval, and the idea of how important the 100 point wines made out of this vineyard by Quilceda Creek have been to the development of Red Mountain, as well as Washington as a whole. Jim then led us through some soil testing exercises right there in the vineyard. It was a bit surreal for me to be standing on such hallowed ground playing in the dirt with Jim Holmes, Alan Busacca and Chris Upchurch.

Or final stop was the beautiful facilities of Terra Blanca Winery and the much needed cool of the wine caves there. Winemaker and Owner Keith Pilgrim talked about the structure of Red Mountain wines and focused specifically on ageability. Keith started the bloggers out with a barrel sample of 2009 Cabernet and talked about the size and structure of that wine and how the structure and tannins allowed Red Mountain wines to really age well. At this time something of a vertical tasting of the Onyx blend took place. Wine Bloggers were treated to pours of the 2006, 2001 and 1999 Onyx. The group I talked with were impressed not only with the wines, but with how much life they still seemed to have, even with the 1999. It was a classic case of Red Mountain structure allowing them to age for a good long time.


The education adjourned for the evening and the bloggers were treated to an incredible Grand Tasting and dinner by Chef Frank Magana of Picazo 717. The Grand Tasting had wines from 11 wineries and Jim Holmes was pouring wines that were made from Ciel Du Cheval fruit. These wineries were not messing around, Jim poured the 07 Quilceda Creek, and Delille Cellars poured both their Grand Ciel Cabernet and Syrah. In addition to some of the wineries who played host earlier, wines were poured by Andrew Will, Cooper Wine, Fidelitas,, Goedhart Family and Grand Reve Vintners. Red Mountain originals Kiona as well as Portrait Cellars and Hightower were poured as well. From the Grand Tasting we adjourned to dinner with a glass of Terra Blanca's 2005 Block 8 Syrah, and Frank Magana showed us how he gets down with BBQ. An amazing Tuscan white bean salad preceded a carnivore's delight: ostrich skewers, wild boar sausage and some serious St. Louis style spare ribs. The evening wrapped up with strawberry shortcake, berry cobbler, and some of the best conversation for miles around.

As the sun set on Red Mountain it was clear to these weary travelers that Red Mountain wine is in a class of it's own, and its terroir is responsible.

(I do have to once again tip my hat to ReNae & Keith Pilgrim at Terra Blanca, they are amazing hosts, and great amabassadors of Washington Wine and Red Mountain.)

#WAWine in 160 Characters or Less!

As previously announced, The Oregon Wine Blog participated in #WAwine this evening. A chance for all geeks, winos, and wine royalty to join together on the twitter machine and in real life to talk about something near and dear to our heart: Washington Wine. A worldwide event, we had 2 different correspondents chronicling the night from different locations. So, here you have it, #WAwine in 160 character or less thoughts. Incoherent? Sure. In backwards order? You bet. Still a great time and some great wine!

From The Oregon Wine Blog Headquarters in Corvallis, OR (@OR_Wine_Blog and @rgoranflo):

Thanks @drinknectar. A great chance to drink some #WAWine

"I'm like freaking out" says @rgoranflo. In the best possible way! Glad tonight is an @terrablanca night. #WAWine

Whoa says @rgoranflo. Fruit forward with a little kick at the end. Red Mountain awesomeness. Some good cherry notes @TerraBlanca #WAWine

2005 @terrablanca Reserve Cab Sauv. Bold, Spicy, and oaky on the nose. #WAWine.

2005 @terrablanca Reserve Cab Sauv. Red Mountain. Part 2 of #WAWine.

@Fuzzy_Ninja...@terrablanca Barrel Select Syrah is a fab option.

@Fuzzy_Ninja A great #WAWine for rainy camping...Airfield Bombshell Red, Barnard Griffin Cabernet...

RT @clivity You know the best thing about #wawine ? The people..@coop_cwc @yasharwinemongr @redmtngal @fidelitasjess just to name a few

Ladies and gentlemen, @terrablanca is for real! Check them out. #WAWine

Anybody else drinking #WAWine in Oregon tonight?

@clivity you drinking some bud light? #WAWine

@clivity is probably rocking the house! #WAWine

F*ck this is good, says @rgoranflo of the @terrablanca Onyx. A medley of dark red fruit. #WAWine

The smell of Eastern Washington big reds blends into a synergy that almost can't be described. #WAWine

@terrablanca Onxy....SO enticing. Did you know they are ustreaming tonight? #WAWine

Lot's of dark fruit on the nose. Cranberry. Currant. Smells fabulous. @terrablanca Onyx. #WAWine

@rgoranflo and I are just tweetimg around with the Onyx waiting for the rest of the party to arrive! #WAWine

2006 @terrablanca Onyx. One of our favorite #WAWine selections here in Oregon! http://twitpic.com/1topc6

Big day on the Twitter machine. We are gearing up for #WAWine with @terrablanca!

From the Seattle, WA Office (@clivity):

the singing guy from @waterswine cusses a lot but their syrah is other worldly #forgottenhills #wawine

Wow Eric Dunhm is one hell of a nice guy #wawine

i just met an unemployed cardiologist wtf? #winerocks

dick boushey in the heezy #wawine #winerocks

this hippie guy can really sing but its way too warm for that hat #winerocks

Strange question of the night? @dustedvalley asked me what i was wearing...#wawine

these wine folk can rock the house #winerocks Paul Gregutt rocked us out #wawine

nice running into @kk4wine @winomagazine #winerocks

@kk4wine are you here?

@ghwine look at you tweetinmg way to be. #wwine

@smasnecellars Konner Ray blends are really smooth drinking wines #wawine

drinking @jmcellars 06 syrah with @gjunkin #wawine #winerocks

You know the best thing about #wawine ? The people..@coop_cwc @yasharwinemongr @redmtngal @fidelitasjess just to name a few

@OR_Wine_Blog no, the winemaker from Sleight of Hand #wawine

trey busch just tried to wring some wine out of that @fidelitaswines 07 rd mtn...and it worked #wawine

somehow it took me this long to have @efeste but the Feral lives up to the hype wild animal all over the place #wawine

@tarynmiller is celebrating her b day week here @ #wawine tweetup @hardrockseattle http://twitpic.com/1tosr3

@yasharwinemongr ran off w my camera and god only knows what kinda photos he took #wawine

faupaux white after red but this @ancwine roussanne is crisp and delicious from destiny ridge #wawine

onto @desvoignecellars san remo sangiovese gold @wineawards #wawine

@dustedvalley im drinking @fieldinghills 07 merlot & chilling w @redmtngal & @fidelitasjess in a sweater #wawine

@coop_cwc is in the house @hardrockseattle onto @grandrevewine III peppery goodness #wawine

starting w @fidelitaswine 07 Red Mtn bold and classic red mtn fruit #wawine

this bus is like a scene from Sartre's Nausea, driver get me to #wawine fast

Nearly #WAwine time. Heading down to @HardRockSeattle soon for the festivities. Big ups to @509wines for hosting a gig in Fremont

Did that make sense to any of you? If so, you are a genius. Or drunk.

Straight from the Barrel in Yakima, Yo.

A few weeks ago, I detailed the first day of my visit to Yakima Valley Spring Barrel Tasting with every intention of part 2 following within a few days. Well, it didn't, and there was much sadness in the universe. Wipe those tears away, friends, because your wait is over.

I woke up bright and early on Saturday morning after a very restful sleep in the lovely Holiday Inn Express Hotel and Suites in Pasco with a belly rumbling from hunger, a head in need of some coffee, and a palate salivating in anticipation of some awesome wine. I made my way down to the breakfast bar at the hotel, very pleased to find a full breakfast buffet for all guests - complimentary, my friends, meaning it is included in your rate! After grabbing a healthy serving of cinnamon rolls, bacon, oatmeal, and coffee, I sat down to focus on the logistics of the day. I was to meet my brother Chris in an hour in Richland, ready to hit the wine trail. Chris, being a relative newcomer in the world of oenological goodness, was depending on me to lead the way. I faced the eternal debate: go to wineries I knew and loved, or, take a little more of a risk and hit some newbies. Wanting a new experience to share with you, I made the decision to focus on wineries I had not been to yet. I sketched out a map, picked up Chris, and to Red Mountain we went.

Behold, a chronicle of our journey and the wine that deserves a place on your rack:

• Hightower Cellars:A winery that sources fruit from Horse Heaven Hills, Red Mountain, and Walla Walla, Hightower opened on Red Mountain in 2002 and their vineyards are beginning to produce estate fruit. Boasting a female winemaker, Hightower makes some tasty big reds true to their appellations. We sampled a Petit Verdot straight out of the barrel, and both Chris and I agreed that we would have bought a bottle had it been available. Unfortunately, it was indeed still in the barrel so we'll have to wait.

• Tapteil Estate: Planted in 1985, Tapteil's vines are grandfathers in the Red Mountain family. Producing estate big reds, Tapteil was the biggest surprise of the weekend for me - in a phenomenal way. After barrel tasting two different Syrah's (and loving both), we proceeded to the tasting room to try the rest of their lineup. I walked away with a Red Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon and a Yakima Valley Syrah, and am waiting with baited breath for the release of the next vintage. They're for real.

• Terra Blanca: Sharing the amazingness of TB with my brother was a must, and we found probably the best organized tasting process of the weekend. Staff and wine was spread among 10 tasting stations, taking customers through a progression to please the palate. The Barrel Select Syrah resonated with my brother, and I walked away with one of my favorite wines ever - the Pantheon.

• Goose Ridge Estate Vineyard and Winery: Off the Red Mountain path, Goose Ridge was the final stop for the day as we headed back towards Richland. With Charlie Hoppes as the winemaker, you can't go wrong with any of their juice. I particularly enjoyed the Estate Merlot and my brother enjoyed most everything he tried.

As I drove up I-82 towards Prosser the first night, I took a moment to reflect on just how special of a place the Columbia and Yakima Valleys are. Spring being the best time of year in the area, I felt a sense of place that was much more laid back and at-home than my trip to Sonoma and Napa a month before. I hope the Red Mountain and Prosser area never lose that atmosphere, strongly rooted in a down-to-earth agricultural history. World class wine up a dirt road, in the middle of some sagebrush, rattle snakes, and great people.  Oh, and the sunsets...

All in all, Spring Barrel Tasting provided a wonderful opportunity to taste upcoming new releases and visit wineries not typically open to the public. As the day went on, crowds grew and I had to remind myself that it wasn't a race to try as many wines as possible - that trying the wine was the experience, versus completing a checklist. The nature of this type of weekend doesn't leave a lot of time to chat with winery staff or winemakers, but it definitely was well organized and resonates with many consumers. I'd recommend Friday if you'd like to avoid some crowds. Oh, and be safe.

Seattle Food & Wine Experience:

A recent sunny Sunday afternoon found at the Seattle Center for the long awaited Seattle Food and Wine Experience; a truly global sampling of wine, beer and food. Gwynne and I arrived a bit late but with plenty of time to check out the scene. The F&W Experience was crawling with winemakers, owners, and twitterati.

Seeing some old friends like Rachel from Terra Blanca and Jay from DeLille Cellars made us feel comfortable right away. It was doubly nice to have a chance to sample the ONYX and the Chaleur Estate Blanc.

The event was certainly bumping by the time we arrived, with a long, long line for Kathy Casey's cookbook signing. People were chatting and there was certainly a buzz in the air. The event was set up with the Northwest winemakers front and center - as they should be - with Australia, France, Argentina, Spain, and California further in the back.

There were breweries and a variety of other vendors, including elaborate salts and pepper grinders as well as wine tours and adventure trips.

The event included cooking demos and tasty bites from several area restaurants. Some of the highlights included Salty's on Alki, who served very addictive Milk Chocolate and Sea Salt clusters and a phenomenal Ono Ceviche; Ray's Boathouse came out with Alaskan King Salmon Gravad Lax with Pummelo and Rye Toast. I didn't get a chance to pair these bites with a particular wine, but the tasty bites help our palates stay engaged a little longer, and they also staved off intoxication just a little bit. For some of us anyways.

At any event where you pay an admission ($49 in advance or $59 at the door, ours was waived) for an "unlimited" access to alcohol, you'll see some folks who look or sound like they never left college. There were three guys in particular who stood out, one of whom looked a bit...lost, and two jokers we encountered at the Grand Reve table. They had no real business drinking Grand Reve at this point, as they probably wouldn't appreciate it.

For the most part people were enjoying the various wineries (responsibly) and their wide array of options. In addition to old friends there were other wines I've had before including Anam Cara, a small producer of Oregon Pinot was on the list of those I had to sample. I first came across Anam Cara on one of our first Willamette Valley trips when they were pouring at August Cellars. I held onto that wine for a few years before having it with friends at a nice meal. They make deep, thoughtful pinot that you really need to spend time with.

Hard Row to Hoe, who is constantly coming across my twitter feed thanks to @seattlewinegal (who has probably posted 22 tweets in the time its going to take you to read this) is a wine I'd not yet tasted. Don was pouring the Primitivo and the Barbera. Both were excellent. I preferred the Barbera, which was dark and brooding and had a flavor profile that certainly has it standing out among Washington wines.

One of the most interesting wines I had was the 2008 biodynamic Syrah from NHV, or Naches Heights Vineyards. The wine had a very floral bouquet, yet the palate was more common of Washington Syrah. Phil Cline and I decided to we needed to meet some time in the future out in Yakima so he can give me the scoop on his biodynamic operations.

The Seattle Food & Wine Experience was most certainly a good time. Some of the finest wine in the Northwest was on hand, as well as options from across the globe. Truth be told, my provincialism got in the way of tasting some of it (Gwynne was much more geographically adventurous). From savory seafood samples to cupcakes (none of which lasted long) to entertainment, the Food and Wine Experience had it all. Each attendee received a commemorative wine glass and memories of wine food and fun. Those three guys I mentioned earlier - probably not so many memories, so at least they got that glass.

Flight of the ONYX at Terra Blanca

On our recent trip to the Yakima Valley, Gwynne and I decided to venture out to Red Mountain and the Terra Blanca facilities, which had come highly recommended. Josh emailed ahead and let owner and winemaker Keith Pilgrim know we were coming.

At Terra Blanca, we introduced ourselves and owner and winemaker Keith and marketing genius Heather gave us a rundown of the history of Terra Blanca and a sneak preview into some of their upcoming changes. They're good ones, for sure. We also met Casey the Weimaraner, Heather's arch nemesis at Terra Blanca.

Keith and Heather gave us a tour of the facility. It's magnificent - from caves (caves!) to enormous doors to beautiful views from the terrace. The caves are naturally climate controlled and are hidden behind some serious doors.


As we were wrapping up the tour and our visit, ReNae Pilgrim asked if had a schedule and if we were at all interested in sticking around. The staff was having a lunch meeting in preparation for the 2006 Onyx release that was coming up that weekend. Gwynne and I said that we'd be thrilled to be their guests. (We had no idea just how thrilled we'd be.)

We walked around the corner and before us sat two pizzas and the entire vertical flight of ONYX; nine years worth of their signature Bordeaux blend. Keith, who got his start as geologist, named this wine for the deep dark gem. The ONYX is built to last, and Heather cited a Wine Spectator article that recently named three or four places in the world that turned out wines that were grown for the long haul. Red Mountain Cabernet and Merlot were on that list.

Terra Blanca describes ONYX as a "family portrait" of the Terra Blanca vineyards, and that portrait includes Cabernet, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec. The blend varies from year to year because the fruit is different every year, and the variation allows the character of the vineyards for that year be expressed in the wine.

We started with the 1999, still a big bold wine. A wine that Keith described as "wearing boxing gloves." The grapes had a long hang time in 1999, with a very long growing season, making the vintage of the wine a unique one.

From there we moved to the 2000, which Keith feels is nearly at its peak. The 1998, which we drank immediately afterward, was the first wine to really come into it's own. Both wines are the product of hot seasons and are therefore maturing more quickly. The '98 blend saw 50% Merlot which resulted in soft tannins and a lot of chocolate.

We went next to 1997 which Keith thinks will peak in 8-10 years. It's 90% Cabernet, and is still bright. This was the first year of ONYX, with the estates planted in 1993. The vines were relatively young, in their fifth leaf, and Keith expects this wine will really come into it's own.

2001 was the next wine we tasted; it was very similar to the 97. The label looked like a Francis Bacon painting. This particular vintage used a higher percentage of new oak and the wine has a smoothness and elegance that stood out from its peers.

2002 was another warm growing season, similar to the '98 and 2000. It will likely mature faster than some of the older wines. Keith though prefers the more even temperature years. The fruit is more predictable and you have a good sense of what you can do with it. The 2003, which we tasted next, was likened to the 1997 wines because of the similar structure in the wines. This vintage, however, will take a few years to reveal itself. 2004 was a freeze year, and so only about one third of the crop was available.

The 2005 wine was my favorite, and brought out what is perhaps a first (in my hearing, at any rate): Heather called it crunked. Keith cited an change in oak that broadened the wine and gave it an elegance. The 2005 also introduced a new clone of Petit Verdot that fares a bit better in the Washington climate. He was pleased that I liked it the most as his goal was "to get better at what I'm doing."

The new release, the 2006 was also very good, and Keith turned up the Cab Franc and Petit Verdot ratios on this wine. His goal is to make a wine that's more approachable early. While ONYX is a reflection of the vintage, of that family portrait, it's also a reflection of Keith's maturation as a winemaker. He compared the wines to lego sets; the more sets you have, and the more experience, the more intricate things you can create. Keith talked about his process, of "thinking about this and trying to do something with a goal in mind. We're trying to get better with the choices we're making." When I asked Keith what he thought about the entire flight, and how they were maturing he revealed that he's so caught up in what he has going on in the current vintages that he doesn't give it so much thought.

My favorite thought Keith shared was "Wine is supposed to be fun. If you can figure out how to get the cork out of the bottle, you should be able to enjoy it." Well, we certainly had fun on this day. Being able to taste through the entire history of Terra Blanca, and spend some time with Keith, ReNae, Heather, and the staff was a fantastic experience and showed me a lot about how a wine and a winemaker can change and evolve. We certainly enjoyed it, and we'll be back to visit soon.

Upcoming Event: Seattle Food & Wine Experience

The Seattle Food & Wine Experience is coming up soon, and I, for one, am really looking forward to the event. On February 28th between 1-5pm the wine and culinary worlds will converge in the Seattle Center Exhibition Hall.

Winemakers from ten different countries will be available, as well as special "Pavilions" for certain regions, including Washington, Oregon and California. Other countries, such as Italy, France and Australia will also be showing their wares.


I'm looking forward to seeing some Northwest favorites like Delille Cellars and Kiona Vineyards as well as TOWB favorite Terra Blanca.

In addition to the wine, food will also be a major part of the experience, with chefs from nearly 20 restaurants providing appetizers to pair with the wine.

The event proceeds benefit Beechers Flagship Foundation, an organization that looks to educate kids in fourth to sixth grade about the risks and realities of food additives.

Tickets are $49 in advance and $59 on the day of the event. Admission comes with 50 tasting tickets, with each tastings 'costing' between 1 and 3 tickets. No matter how you do the math, you're going to have a great experience. I hope I'll see you there.

Fortified (Port-Style) Wine of the Yakima Valley: Episode 1; Cabernet Sauvignon

When a wine is referred to as 'fortified,' it means it's been made stronger (or 'fortified') by adding a distilled beverage, traditionally brandy. The brandy is added before the fermentation process is complete, which kills the yeast, leaving behind more sugar, which results in a stronger, sweeter beverage. As I mentioned here, to properly be called Port, the wine must hail from the Duoro Valley in Portugal. Since the wines I received were grown and bottled in Washington, they are more properly 'port-style' or 'fortified wines.'

I would like to take you on a figurative journey through the fortified or Port-style wines of Yakima Valley, through nine Yakima Valley wineries and one Idaho winery. In order to give you a sense of what I had the pleasure to taste, I'll be breaking out my posts based on varietal. We'll be touring fortified wines made with Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Sangiovese, or using a traditional port-style blend. Today's post will focus on the fortified wine made from the Cabernet Sauvignon grape.

Without further ado...Cabernet Sauvignon

I received three samples of fortified wine made from Cabernet Sauvignon: The Forte from Terra Blanca and two American Port-Style wines from Eaton Hill, Lot 99 and Lot 03. Because port-style wines are so enjoyable, I asked some friends to join us for the tasting of the Cabernets.

We started with the Terra Blanca Forte, 2005 ($42), which is 100% Cabernet. Put simply, it was quite good. This fortified wine is Terra Blanca's homage to the great Ports of the Duoro Valley. The nose had cherries and raisins, and one friend "definitely smelled raspberries." It went beautifully with dried figs and chocolate truffles, which enhanced flavor elements of the wine, including a resounding plum flavor that everyone picked up. Gwynne cited cassis which sent the group into a disagreement over what cassis actually was. Gwynne was right. The technical notes mentioned that the grapes were left to hang until mid-November. The sweetness that came out of that resulted in a very smooth texture in this delicious dark ruby wine.

Eaton Hill sent two fortified wines, the Lot 03, and the Lot 99, the respected harvest years of the fruit used in each.

The Lot 99 ($40) is made from Cabernet grapes and aged 17 months in oak barrels. This wine was awarded a silver medal at the 2003 San Diego National Wine Competition, and it came with a cool little silver sticker on the bottle. Gwynne described the nose of this wine perfectly: "it smells like a hot sunny day with over-ripened black berries crushed on the sidewalk." It had flavors of plum and caramel. We drank this along side the Theo Bread and Chocolate bar, which was a hit.

The Eaton Hill Lot 03 ($50) was amazing. Stunning. The nose of this wine is unbelievably luxuriant. This wine certainly benefited from the 30 months it spent in oak. Though it paired very well with the chocolate, cheese and dried figs we had on hand, this wine is a dessert in and of itself, with a nose of dried rose petals and vanilla. The wine tastes of chocolate, cherries and plum jam. One guest even a smoothness and depth of flavor reminiscent of crème brûlée. The wine was silky smooth and by far our favorite of the evening, and it had the jewelry to match. With six silver medals and one bronze medal this wine had more bling than Lil' John.

My next fortified wine post will be coming soon, but in the meantime, if you find yourself in need of an after-dinner drink, I wouldn't hesitate to recommend any one of the Terra Blanca Forte, Eaton Hill Lot 99 or Eaton Hill Lot 03.

The Best of 2009 - The Oregon Wine Blog Style

It's been a fantastic year for The Oregon Wine Blog.  We've met some great people, drank some fabulous wine, enjoyed culinary delights, and experienced the true bounty of our region.  We made 78 posts on the blog and grew to a staff of 4 regular contributors, and site visits are up 56% over last year.

Early in December we started kicking around the idea of doing a "Best of 2009" feature and nearly immediately hit a roadblock in discussing the logistics of this post.  Should it be the best wine we drank in 2009...or the best wine released in 2009...or the our favorite experience associated with the blog during the year?  Well, in the true organic style of our blog, we decided that each writer could "do whatever the hell they want" as long as it involves wine and 2009.  So here goes - our staff's Best of 2009 - for what it's worth!

---

Josh's Pick
Narrowing down to a favorite of 2009 was very difficult for me. There are particular wines that stick out, particular experiences that were phenomenal, and as you can probably tell from our posts that we have some wineries that are solidly great, 100% of the time. I decided to focus on a wine and experience that was a surprise, versus a place like Willamette Valley Vineyards where we know it will always excel. The surprise, in a very good way, and my Best of 2009 is Terra Blanca Winery and their 2003 Pantheon.

2003 Terra Blanca Pantheon

We've detailed a few of the reasons that Terra Blanca is a favorite in previous postings, but in short both times the blog has officially visited the estate we have been blown away by the culture, the experience, and the wine.

 This summer we had one of those afternoons where we walked through the door expecting to taste through and be out, and we ended up chatting with the winemaker for nearly an hour, getting a wonderful tour of the cellar, and tasting wines that are demonstrative of the Red Mountain amazingness. The 2003 Pantheon is one of those wines. I wish I had purchased a bottle while I was there as it wasn't available the next time I visited the tasting room. A new take on Nebbiolo, the Pantheon is 81% Nebbiolo, 17% Cab Sauv, and 2% Dolcetto and it is everything that is great about an Eastern Washington spin on an Italian wine. As noted by the winemaker, "A full-bodied blend bursting with flavor and the aromas of violets, the Nebbiolo shines while the Cabernet Sauvignon provides the depth and backbone of the wine. On the palate, flavors of cherries and licorice dominate." Thank you, Terra Blanca, for what you are doing in the industry.

---

Rick's Pick
Picking just one wine as my favorite for the year is a very difficult decision. I've had some absolutely phenomenal wine, met some folks producing world class varietals, and had the opportunity to participate in some really fun events. Over and over again we continue to write about the entire wine experience, which is just as important to me as the wine itself. After a lot of deliberation, I kept coming back to one bottle of wine that was not only delicious, but was part of a really great experience:

2005 Col Solare

I don't mean to sound like a broken record mentioning Col Solare again, but the very first bottle of 2005 Col Solare Josh and I enjoyed together has been perhaps the most enjoyable bottle of wine I have ever had the pleasure to uncork. For a full write up, check out the article we wrote.

Long story short, Josh and I had been talking about wanting to try Col Solare for quite some time. $75 for a bottle of wine is quite a stretch for two guys that write for a wine blog that creates zero revenue, but I finally pulled the trigger. I had just finished grad school and officially started my career, whilst Josh was getting ready for a business trip to England and having a generally frustrating day. It wasn't anything fancy, but we popped the bottle and reflected on all the great stuff that had happened in recent months while he packed for the trip.

The wine itself was phenomenal as well. Col Solare essentially gets first pick of all of Chateau St. Michelle's fruit with the sole purpose of making the best red blend possible This mix of Cab Sauv, Merlot, and Cab Franc succeeded with flying colors.

Since then, Josh, Chris, and I later had the opportunity to visit Col Solare's winery on Red Mountain. Not only is their wine phenomenal, but Wendy gave us what I would consider the most special wine tour I have ever had. Col Solare could be the most pretentious winery in the entire Northwest, but Wendy's down-to-earth mentality and willingness to be open with us made the experience even better. To pass on word from Wendy herself, it's not invitation-only to go on a tour, but you do need to make an appointment. It is certainly well worth it.

---

Clive's Pick
When I reflect on what the best or most interesting bottle of wine I had in 2009, one particular wine stands out. As someone who has scoffed at this type of wine in the past, I can't believe I'm about to admit this, but the most interesting wine I drank in 2009 was a Rosé. Yes, I said it. DeLille's 2008 Doyenne Rosé is quite simply the best rosé I’ve ever had.

2008 DeLille Doyenne Rosé

DeLille made this Rosé in the Bandol style; the blend is 70% mourvedre, 15% grenache and 15% cinsault. The wine is a beautiful salmon color in the glass with touches of strawberry and meadow on the nose. The wine has a wonderful crispness to it that make it work very well as a stand alone wine and equally well with food. I’ve volunteered at DeLille for a few years and while I think the experience I had with the wine and with the people who are involved in making it contributed to how I felt about it, there is no question that this wine is phenomenal in its own right.

---

Micheal's Pick
2009 was far from my best year in terms of wine, primarily because I did not drink as much of it as I would have liked. So when the idea came across the staff e-mail asking us to write about our favorite of 2009, it was relatively easy for me. My best of 2009, was, unfortunately, not a wine whose grapes were grown, picked, fermented, or bottled in 2009. This is a bottle from 2004 that I received in the spring of 2008, and this would be the last wine that I had in my old apartment in July before I moved to my new place in August. For me, the best of 2009 would be the 2004 Westrey Pinot Noir from Abbey Ridge Vineyard, which is located in the Dundee Hills area of Oregon.

2004 Westrey Pinot Noir - Abbey Ridge Vineyard

I received this bottle of wine at the end of my first academic year at Willamette University (my current employer). After my first year, my role would change and I would no longer be in the same department that originally brought me to Willamette. My Director at the time wanted to give me something as a "going away" gift, and she knew I liked wine, but she herself did not know a lot about wine. She spoke with the Vice President I would now be reporting to. He, has and remains a wine connoisseur, having written wine reviews for either the Statesman or the Oregonian (I forget which one), and this bottle was among the bottles he recommended and I received.

I recall very clearly the day I opened this Pinot Noir. I had two friends, Ross and Denise visiting from Chicago - they decided to spend their one year wedding anniversary in Oregon, and spent a couple of days with me. We had spent the day driving up the Pacific Coast Highway, and had traveled from Salem to Newport to Lincoln City to Tillamook, and back to Salem. After such a long day, I thought it would be best to unwind with a bottle of wine, and as we had had a couple of really warm days and I was worried about this wine going bad, I thought it would be a great treat to have. I remember three things about this wine - the color, the nose, and way it was on the palate. The color - a rich red that was bold and stood out, yet it still had some transparency to it. The nose - oaky and spicy in a way that put a smile on your face. When sniffing this wine, you knew you were about to enjoy a great glass of wine. The palate - the way this wine landed on your palate, coated it, and you tasted every aspect of the wine - made you tingle. I remember enjoying the spices and the way they were subtle and not overpowering, and how my sense of smell enhanced the way my sense of taste absorbed this wine, and my brain processed it. In short, having this pinot was a full body experience.

This wine will hold a place in my heart for so many reasons and I am glad that I can say this was my best wine of 2009.

---

There we have it folks, 2009 is in the bag. As you can see, each special bottle has a backstory to it that makes it all the more meaningful to each of us.

What is your "best of", in whatever non-linear way you define best?

Revisiting Terra Blanca

As previously mentioned a couple posts ago, a few of us at The Oregon Wine Blog had the opportunity to do some wine tasting in both the Red Mountain and Wall Walla AVAs in Eastern Washington. While we will slowly be publishing highlights of that trip, the first destination I would like to write about is Benton City's Terra Blanca Winery and Estate Vineyard. If you have not read it yet, I highly encourage you read Michael's post about Terra Blanca from last year as I will be entirely skipping pieces he has already covered.

As a relatively new writer for The Oregon Wine Blog, I was really excited for my first expedition out to Eastern Washington for some serious wine tasting. Our first day ended at Terra Blanca (much like last year's trip) and after hearing about how great of a time was had last year, I was more than ready to experience Terra Blanca for myself. Having only tried their Onyx Bordeaux-style red blend before, I was in for quite the experience.

Let me also preface before I get into this article that I'm probably going to ramble. I may have started rambling already. The point is that when I'm excited about something, I tend to ramble. The following is more or less an instruction book for how to get a wine nerd excited.


Upon entering Terra Blanca's beautiful facility by tugging on one of the largest wooden doors I have ever seen (side note: they should consider going all the way and installing a draw bridge), Josh, Chris, and I were warmly greeted upon walking up to the tasting area. Not only was I surprised at how many different wines Terra Blanca has for tasting, but something else happened that I didn't expect. The woman cracking jokes and pouring wine behind the bar? Yup, that was Rachel from last year's article and she almost immediately recognized Josh. Not only did she accurately recall their trip from last year, but it turns out she also read our article and became a mini celebrity around the winery. Who knew we had that kind of effect?

Time to try some wine! Terra Blanca, like many large-scaled wineries, offers both a standard and a reserve tasting. We opted for the reserve line, where virtually every wine we tasted was phenomenal. I'll get to the wines in a bit, but one person in particular considered the non-reserve cab sauv better than the reserve. Rachel introduced us to Drew, who had recently started working at Terra Blanca and was finishing off his day with a glass of wine. After insisting we try their other cab sauv, the panel was split 50/50 in regards to which we preferred. While I could go on about how both cab sauvs are great wines for different reasons, I point out our experience with Drew because it didn't end at the tasting bar.

Although he had just finished working for the day, Drew graciously agreed to give us a tour of the facility and it's cellar. Even more gracious considering that he was originally planning on sticking around to give a tour for his parents. While Michael described the cellar in great depth, I would like to also point out that we were also shown where Terra Blanca libraries their wine as well as the bottling room. A fun fact I learned is that wax-covered bottles are hand-dipped. I suppose that makes sense, but for whatever reason I assumed there was some sort of bottling technology out there more sophisticated than a crock-pot full of wax. Guess not!

I would also like to point out that each and every one of our readers since the blog redesign has seen a piece of Terra Blanca. See that beautiful header at the top of every page? That's their cellar.

Another fun fact: Drew's father is John Clement; regional photographer and author of a couple books we have on our coffee table. That was definitely a surprise.

Once the tour finished it was back to the tasting room! After Rachel's awesome impression of her sister, we were up for another treat. Keith Pilgrim (owner/winemaker) paid us a visit and even took over some pouring duties. Keith is one of the most down to Earth and completely open people in the wine industry I have ever met. We talked about a whole array of topics including wine making, wine blogging, marketing, their new labels, and even his thoughts regarding the future of the wine industry in terms of audience. In short, Keith definitely has his finger on the pulse of the wine industry and expect big things from Terra Blanca.

Did I mention Terra Blanca also makes wine? While we had the opportunity to try almost all of their wines, I'll expedite the process by listing what we went home with.

-2004 Winemaker's Barrel Select Syrah
-2004 Reserve ONYX Bordeaux
-2003 Pantheon (blend of 81% Nebbiolo, 17% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Dolcetto)
-2002 Estate Reserve Merlot
-2002 Estate Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon
-2005 Forte Cabernet Sauvignon Port

While all of the above wines were obviously good enough to where we couldn't leave without them, let me specifically point out their Pantheon blend. Everybody in the wine industry does blends and often times many are not memorable, but this isn't the case for Pantheon. I was rather shocked at seeing its blend composition and it took all of one sip before Chris knew he had to have a bottle. I highly recommend picking up a bottle of this if you want a truly unique red blend not typically seen in the Pacific Northwest.

Rarely do wineries have that perfect combination of atmosphere, great wine, and a dedication to the experience as a whole. Terra Blanca is one winery that gets this absolutely perfect and what's even better is that we can now prove this experience is replicable. In terms of having the holistic perfect wine tasting experience, I can't think of another winery I would recommend any higher to visit in all of Eastern Washington. The selection is broad enough that everybody will find something they like and the staff is welcoming enough to where you can feel comfortable asking the most basic of questions.

After at least an hour and a half of visiting, it was time to head out. A huge thank you goes out to Rachel, Drew, Keith, and everybody else at Terra Blanca that makes it such a gem.

Late with a Late Harvest

I realized that January had literally come and gone and I had not made an entry for the month. This evening I was in the mood for something sweet. Fortunately, or not, I noticed that I had nothing sweet to eat in my apartment. I did, although, forget that I had a wine in my basement, and some wine on the sweeter side at that. I didn’t think I wanted a port, and when searching through my wine stock, I found this 2005 Late Harvest Chenin Blanc from Terra Blanca. This wine came in my latest shipment from Willamette Valley Vineyards.

As a reminder, late harvest grapes tend to be those grapes which are left on the vine for a long as possible, sometimes to the first frost of the year the maximization of sweetness of the grape. This particular wine is sold out, so maybe I should not have opened it so soon :-)

I opened the bottle and was again reminded of the nose that I tend to enjoy on Late Harvest Chenin Blancs. The nose is fruity, but not overly, with hints of grapes and pear, and a hint of alcohol. For whatever reason my legs did not show the legs very well, so I cannot give you an accurate detail of what they are like nor how this wine coats my glass. What I enjoy most about this wine is that it is softer on the palate, not over sweet, with a little bite of tartness.

The website makes note that this wine has hints of pineapple, mango, and other citrus which I don’t notice as much, but it could also be because I was eating some peanut butter with wheat bread (no, it wasn’t the tainted Salmonella peanut butter, but I appreciate your concern) because I noticed a difference in my first couple of sips and my sips while I munched.

All the same, this wine can be enjoyed by anyone who likes wine. It is not too sweet, nor is it too tart. While I opted to enjoy it later in an evening with some peanut butter and bread, I imagine it with a light cake, perhaps an angel food, or a cake without frosting.

I would be interested in what others have to say about this one.

Until next time...

Doing A Great Wine Justice

I have hesitated writing and publishing this post because I have wanted to make sure that I did it justice. I doubt I am alone in being one who may struggle with conveying the great work of the wine makers and others who have been involved in us (The Oregon Wine Blog contributors) having a great experience to the readers.

Josh wrote that some of us went to the Tri-Cities and Walla Walla area a couple of weeks ago. One of the wineries we visited was Terra Blanca. Terra Blanca is located in the Red Mountain region of South Central Washington, just west of the Tri-Cities in Benton City, Washington. This was not my first time at Terra Blanca, but this visit allowed me to really see the scenery and beauty that the summer held in the Red Mountain area - my previous visit having been in the winter, I can now easily contrast the two seasons here.

We arrived at Terra Blanca with it being our last stop in a day full of tasting in the Tri-Cities area. It was a very picturesque summer day with a the sun shining brightly and only a few clouds in the sky. We walked under the terrace, draped in various types of foliage, toward the main building, and behind us we could see Red Mountain for which the region is famous for. The Terra Blanca website has a little bit of history which can be found here.

Upon entering the building, which is constructed in a way that makes you think of a Medieval buildings- with large wooden doors and large stones - you come into a large hall with high ceilings, and plenty of space. The tasting bar is located just opposite the door. We had arrived not long before they would be closed and the employees were setting up for a wedding rehearsal. Rachel was the server who gave us our samplings, chatted with us, and to our surprise, offered to give us a quick tour of the facility.

The tour began with a ride down a very nondescript elevator to the basement. When the door opened we stepped into a large warehouse type area with the temperature several tens of degrees cooler than it was outside and even upstairs in the main area. I recall there being a few barrels, but nothing to the extent of what our eyes would soon behold. Not far from the elevator were two more large wooden doors - adding to the Medieval atmosphere. When Rachel opened the doors, the only thought that comes to mind is the scene in Willie Wonka and the Chocolate Factory (the original one with Gene Wilder), where the door opens and the children see the great candy room. For those of us from The Oregon Wine Blog who were at Terra Blanca that day, we saw a series of corridors, some long and some short, that were stacked several barrels high, full of wine. It was cool (temperature-wise), clean, and a bit aromatic with all of the wine there at various stages of the fermenting/aging process in either lighter wood barrels and dark wood barrels. To know we were able to see something that might not be very common for others to see gives you a little bit of excitement. As a person who constantly wants to know how things work and come to be, that mini-tour was amazing.

While my description might seem a little anti-climactic, you have to understand that there was a lot of excitement about this for us. Here we were, in the cellar, a true real wine cellar. Wine cellars like those you imagine existed in Elizabethan England or during the reign of the Hapsburgs in the Holy Roman Empire or on the Iberian Peninsula. The ambiance, the setting, the intentionality of the owners for to you feel like you are NOT in modern times, that is what got me, and made it that much more of an unbelievable experience for me. It was really quite the site to behold, and for me was second only to the Hanford tour we had taken the previous day.

We tired quite a few wines at Terra Blanca, between the five of us, everything on the tasting menu. One of the best wines we tasted was the 2003 Onyx. This wine is an amazing blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec, Petit Verdot, and Cabernet Franc. The Terra Blanca website describes the Onyx as, "Raspberry, cherry, and blackberry with notes of violets that explode from the glass and mingle with hints of cedar and toasted oak on the nose. Smooth, lush flavors of blackberry, black cherry, and cassis wrap around a core of full, yet soft, structured tannins. Cedar notes with light touches of spice fold into lingering dark plum, black cherry and berry flavors bounded by dark chocolate on the vibrant, elegant finish."

I bought a couple of bottles, sharing one with the members of the Wine Blog at our dinner in Walla Walla, and bringing the other two home to Salem with me. I opened one with a old student of mine just before the beginning of the school year, and that evening, I introduced Ryan to the greatness that was Onyx. When poured, we took note of the deep plum, red, grape color that appears to be a trademark of this blend. I told Ryan how to sniff the wine and get a good sense of the things that were on the nose - the oak and cedar mixed with the spices and a hint of the chocolate noticeable only with taking a deep sniff of the wine. I told Ryan about how to he should observe the way the wine coats the glass in nice even streams when the wine is swirled.

Like all wines, one taste is rarely enough to get a full sense of what it has to offer, really just preparing the palate for what is to come, and Onyx is no different. With the first couple of sips, the flavor and "tartness" are on the front of the tongue. As you get into it, you will notice that you get a rich burst of flavor that lingers lightly as you swallow and Onyx gently soothes your throat. The spices are present, as well as a very light fruit taste at the end that is only very lightly present - you may miss it if you don't realize it might be there.

This blend is one that I recommend to everyone, you cannot go wrong. It is one that you can enjoy with a great dinner as we did in Walla Walla, or one that can be sipped on its own, as I did with my former student. I only hope that I have been able to capture the best of this experience to at least intrigue you all into looking to secure your own bottle of Onyx.

As just a side note, I know I speak for all of us here at the Oregon Wine Blog when I say an incredible Thank You to Rachel for showing us around Terra Blanca.

Until next time.