An Honest Review of "Two Buck Chuck"

Fully acknowledging that this may be wine blogger suicide, I am now diving into the wonderful world of Charles Shaw, or “Two Buck Chuck” wine. While the opinions about Charles Shaw range the entire spectrum, I believe they deserve a fair chance at The Oregon Wine Blog. I believe that Charles Shaw gets a bad reputation from people who have never even tried it. Charles Shaw is perhaps one of the most well known labels of “extreme value wine” and many oenophiles form an opinion about Charles Shaw, simply because of the $1.99 price tag. To maintain impartiality throughout this review I am declining to state my personal preference here except to say that I do have my own opinion on Charles Shaw and that was developed after consuming it. With that said, away we go!

Before we get into the wine, let’s talk about the history of the Charles Shaw label. I want to start here because whether or not you are a fan of “Two Buck Chuck” or not, it is important to understand the impact that this wine and other wines produced by the Bronco Wine Company have had on the wine industry. Something I learned in researching for this post was that Charles Shaw is an actual person and did actually produce wines. In the 1970’s, Charles F. Shaw moved to Napa Valley to produce Beaujolais nouveau style wines. At this point Charles Shaw was not trying to produce bargain priced wines and when he sold the name to the Bronco Wine Company in 1991 it carried strong and reliable name recognition. Debuting in 2001, Bronco Wine Company (owned by Fred Franzia) released a new brand of inexpensive wine under the name Charles Shaw. Owner of over 35,000 acres of grapes in Central California, Bronco Wine Company is responsible for over 50 brands of “bargain priced” and “extreme value” wines including Black Mountain, Rutherford Vintners, and Forest Glen, to name a few.

When I committed to doing this review, I ventured into Trader Joe’s, the exclusive retailer for Charles Shaw, and was overwhelmed by the display of the value wine. Intimidating because of the quantity of wine sitting out, not so much by the design or décor of the display, I circled several times before picking the varietals I was going to review. In the end, I settled on a ’08 Merlot, ’09 Cabernet Sauvignon, ’08 Chardonnay, and an ’08 White Zinfandel. Now I know what you’re thinking, “I already don’t like the Two Buck Chuck swill, and now they give me a White Zin, what the hell is next?” Apparently Clive needs to visit California and conquer the White Zinfandel down here as well, now that the evil northwest bosses have been defeated.

Going against convention, I started with the Cabernet Sauvignon followed by the Merlot. The nose on the Cab was very strong but left just as quickly and I couldn’t help but wonder if this was a sign of the wine. Enjoying deep and robust red wines, I was disappointed to taste how fruity the Cabernet was on my first sip and much like the nose, the flavors hopped in their getaway car and sped off, leaving me with only the memory of the tasting. This quick exit was a tell-tale sign that the grapes were not from Sonoma or Napa which typically produce full-bodied and long-lasting wines.
As I moved to the Merlot I was quickly able to pick up flavors of plum as the Merlot had more of a distinct flavor than the Cabernet. Unfortunately the distinct flavor became a metallic one as I sipped. As I took another sip the metallic flavor lingered and tainted the rest of the wine, making it very challenging to enjoy. As it relates to the reds, it’s Cabernet-1 – Merlot-0.

Hoping for a better showing from the “whites” I pulled the Chardonnay out of the fridge. Upon pouring I noticed the very light coloring in the Chardonnay. Similar to the Cabernet there was a lack of a distinct flavor profile in this wine. Whereas Chardonnays find themselves on side of either a crisp, fresh body or a fuller, buttery body, the Charles Shaw Chardonnay is refusing to play the game and is sitting squarely in the middle. Of the flavors present there were hints of pear and apple and of the three wines tasted so far was definitely the most palatable. Although I typically won’t cook with wines I won’t drink, I could see this as an acceptable cooking wine.
And now, the best for last, the 2008 White Zinfandel. As I poured the glass I could see the unmistakable pink color glaring at me, as if it knew my buddy Clive was not around to help me battle. As impartial as I have tried to be tasting Charles Shaw and during this post, it is very difficult to hide my feelings for the White Zinfandel. This wine was just bad. It was near impossible to detect the flavors through my gag reflex. So while I can remotely understand why people would purchase and drink the other three, I find it unfathomable that someone would enjoy this wine.

The common thread through most of the wines was that there was a lack of distinct flavor. It is exactly this characteristic that feeds the success for this label. Particularly for new wine drinkers, I can understand why this wine has mass appeal. Without drinking a lot of wine you don’t know what you like and what you don’t like, and it is an expensive journey to find out. Charles Shaw produces a wine that appeals to people without distinct tastes, and for $1.99 they can’t go wrong.

For better or for worse, the Bronco Wine Company, particularly the labels of Franzia boxed wine and Charles Shaw has introduced wine to a whole new and younger generation of wine drinkers. And while some will progress and transition into more refined tastes, others will be forced to “slap the bladder” for life. Love it or hate it, at least try it before making a judgment on any of their wines. The price shouldn’t dictate your opinion on these wines, as we have all had those $30 or $40 bottles that we also have not enjoyed. So while the wines did not fair so well today in my review, I can understand the type of wine drinker that may enjoy a glass of "Two Buck Chuck."

Welcome to California!

Located just 40 miles north of San Francisco, the Sonoma and Napa wine region is home to over 730 wineries. Sonoma County sits between the California coast and the Mayacamas mountains to the east. Divided into several different areas, including Alexander Valley, Carneros, Dry Creek, and the Russian River Valley all with different temperatures and climates, Sonoma County produces a wide range of wines and is one of California’s largest wine growing regions. Continuing east over the Mayacamas mountains drops you into the heart of Napa county. Arguably the more famous of the two wine growing regions, Napa County boasts its own unique climate being in the valley of two mountain ranges. Traditionally these two regions do not get along with each other and each one will say they are better than the other for a variety of reasons. Having grown up in this wine country I have learned that each has its own specialties and you get a different experience everywhere you go.

Since this is my first post as a writer for The Oregon Wine Blog, allow me to introduce myself. My name is Jesse Andrews and I am originally from Sonoma County. However I have spent time in southern California and was able to experience the Temecula wine growing region as well as spending 4 years in the Pacific Northwest. It was here I was introduced to the other writers for TOWB as well as both Oregon and Washington wines. I moved to Washington with a bias towards California wines but over time found a love and appreciation for the wines of the Pacific Northwest. Now that I have returned I am excited to explore this region even further.

I am aware of the reputation that California has and I can’t say it isn’t deserved. California is home to many wineries that produce the wines regularly found in any grocery store. Names such as Clos du Bois, Kendall-Jackson, and Sebastiani are found in California but so are the little known, family owned wineries tucked away in the rolling hills of California. My hope with this blog is to share some of those wineries with you so that if you take a trip to this area you can find similar experiences that you do at many of the places you love in Oregon and Washington. I am excited to be a part of The Oregon Wine Blog team and to share my experiences with wine in California.

Cheers!

Meanderings in my little Wine World

Today I was greeted with my copy of Red, White, and Drunk All Over; A Wine-Soaked Journey from Grape to Glass. The book, written by Natalie MacLean, was recently advertised in my Wine Blog Email, and I figured I’d give it a shot. The email almost qualified as Spam, but I figured I’d give it a chance, since someone was so kind as to send an email. If you’re sitting on a copy of the book, I’ll let you know my thoughts in the coming weeks.

NAPA VALLEY TRIP

Stretching beyond our Northwest viticulture, my wife and I have planned a trip to Napa Valley in late July, early August. Any suggestions on where to visit? Let us know.

A TOUCH OF WALLA WALLA

When recently invited over to some friends, Walla Walla wine made its way to our table. Our friends had recently made the trip, 5 plus hours mind you, and we couldn’t help but feel like the lucky ones, having spared the snowy drive across the pass, along with rising gasoline costs.

Our offerings that night consisted of a Northstar 2005 Petit Verdot, and a 2003 Canoe Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon. I’ve seen the Canoe Ridge label in my local market, but was unaware of the Northstar offering. The Petit Verdot was paired with a delicious cheese display, consisting of Coppa, Maytag, Gruyere, and some Caerphilly. Not wanting to make a scene with tasting notes, I walked away thinking the wine was good – not great. In fact, the Caerphilly left a greater impression on my wife and I, than the wine.

The Canoe Ridge offering, paired with fresh caught Salmon and Prawns, left a more positive reaction. The wine, consisting of 100% Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, only reassured my recent dis-appreciation with blends. That funk will burn over soon…..I’m sure. Any suggestions on a solid blend? Let me know.

A SHOUTOUT TO OREGON WINE

Recent articles in a handful of publications indicate Oregon produced and crushed a record amount of grapes in 2007. Most exciting to read was that Pinot Gris production increased by 15% and Cabernet Sauvignon production increased by 33%. I haven’t read anything on Washington’s production as of late.
In early February, Washington State made news when a study indicated the wine industry contributed a little more than $2 billion to the state economy in 2006. 19,000 people were said to be working in the Washington Wine industry, and future outlooks appeared strong.
A growing wine industry in Washington and Oregon can only bode well, considering the tough economic times we now find ourselves in.

2005 Keever Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon

I’ve been lucky to share a lot of special memories with my Grandpa while growing up, but I recently realized we have never enjoyed quality conversation over a glass of good wine. This past Christmas my wife and I gifted my Grandpa a spin-off of the program “Meals on Wheels”, where we’d schedule one monthly home-cooked meal for him at our home, or his. What better way to resolve this void in our relationship.

At our January meal, I served a bottle of Willamette Valley Vineyards (WVV) Riesling with our dinner, capping off the meal with the WVV Frizzante to go with a chocolate mousse (yes – just like the Oregon Wine Blog’s Christmas Dinner). I always knew my Grandpa liked wine, although I was more familiar with his typical Restaurant choice – Zinfandel. I figured the Riesling would be a good conversation segway to my newfound wine appeal.

My Grandpa took interest in my new hobby, explaining long-time family friends of he and my Grandma’s, (The Keevers) are Vintners at a Winery in Napa Valley – Keever Vineyards. My Grandpa didn’t know much about the winery, but I made mental note – thinking of “what could be” for February’s meal.

At the conclusion of the meal, and after saying goodbyes, my first priority was to locate Keever Vineyards online, which I did. Navigation through the website revealed an address for the winery, and showed a 100% Estate Grown, Cabernet Sauvignon, priced at $68.00. I penned a letter to Bill Keever (Owner/Operator), explaining the circumstances regarding our “Meals on Wheels”, and told him I’d be purchasing their wine in the near future, while asking for two special requests. I requested my bottles be signed, and that he write a brief note to my Grandpa, which I’d present at February’s meal.

A week after sending the letter, Bill Keever wrote back, with anticipation for what our February meal had in store. A short week later, two bottles of wine arrived, signatures and all, in addition to a personal note addressed to my Grandpa.

Our February meal occurred last Friday, and figuring my Grandpa’s positive reaction, we invited my parents and brother’s family to enjoy in the occasion.

I went to present my Grandpa with his bottle of wine, card and all, and was overwhelmed with his response. His gratitude and appreciation was something I’ll never forget. We opted to pop the cork on the bottle, utilizing a decanter to aerate the wine.

Now, to accurately assess the Keever Cabernet Sauvignon, and to hold some level of objectivity, I asked my dad and brother to bring a bottle of Cabernet Sauvignon, representing the Northwest Viticulture. What arrived were a Silver Lake 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon (Rattlesnake Hills AVA) and an Idaho wine, Sawtooth - 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon.

My wife and sister-in-law assisted in serving up a traditional blind taste test, which resulted in a hands down favorite being the Keever Cabernet; superior in taste, but also its aroma, development and finish, neither my dad, brother, nor I, noted any flaws.

Sitting in the glass, the wine evinced its elegance, showing off a satiny smooth structure, distinguishing itself as the Varsity member of the trio at hand. An array of fruits presented themselves in the nose, most prevalent to us being spiced plum and dark cherries. Winemaker Celia Welch Masyczek describes the wine as “Classically elegant at entry with very fruit-centered flavors up front”. I couldn’t agree more. I respected the 100% Estate Grown Cabernet grapes, and felt some indebtedness to a wine with such close ties to my lineage.

While comparing Napa grown wine to Washington/Idaho wines may have been comparing apples to oranges, I can say that drinking the Keever Cabernet opened my eyes to the world of quality, exquisite wine, and as such, has raised the bar for wine reviews to come.

Thank God I have that second bottle!