Taste of Sonoma - SWCW 2010

This past weekend Katie and I had the pleasure of being invited to cover Sonoma Wine Country Weekend. Our adventures took us to three separate events, Taste of Sonoma, a winemaker dinner at Quivira Vineyards, and finally the 18th annual Sonoma Valley Harvest Wine Auction. We begin our story on Saturday afternoon at Taste of Sonoma, hosted by MacMurray Ranch in Healdsburg, CA.
A collection of over 150 wineries and 60 local chefs, Taste of Sonoma was a bit overwhelming and intimidating to start. Not because we don’t think we belong there, because we can schmooze with the best of them. It was intimidating because as we approached Taste of Sonoma and entered the boundaries of the ranch, there were at least 10 distinct stations or areas that were calling our names. Like a previous event I covered, Wine and Song Around the Plaza, the Taste of Sonoma provided the opportunity to experience some of the best wines in Sonoma County all in one location. Organized by different appellations, there were 4 tented areas on the primary grounds. Sonoma Valley, Russian River Valley, Dry Creek Valley, and Alexander Valley were all represented with both wine and seasonal food pairings.

Prior to the event I had connected with Robert Larsen from Rodney Strong Vineyards who recommended we check out Davis Bynum in the Russian River Valley. Having no other preference as to where we began our adventure, we made our way over and started the day with a crisp 2007 Chardonnay. While the Russian River Valley tends to be cooler, this Chardonnay came from the eastern part of the valley thus giving it a bit more of a tropical crispness. Expertly paired with a chilled corn soup from Syrah Bistro, this was a perfect way to start the day. Knowing there was a long day of sipping and socializing ahead, we moved along and made our next stop at J Vineyards. A maker of both still and sparkling wines, J was pouring one of each and paired it with a specialty BLT. Look for more information to come on J Vineyards, as I just received some sample bottles that will be reviewed soon. It should also be noted that the food offerings were quite substantial, especially given that the event occurred over the lunch hour and there was no doubt that mass quantities of wine were being consumed.

As the day progressed we made our way through each of the other appellation specific tents, stopping at some of our favorites, such as B.R. Cohn, Clos du Bois, and Chateau St. Jean (they were pouring Cinq Cepages), but really focusing on trying some new and unfamiliar wineries. Some of our new found favorites included Haywood Estates, Kokomo Winery, and Spann Vineyards, who we got to spend the entire day with at Harvest Auction. If you attend this event, I really recommend stopping by places you don’t know much about. I made it a point to stop at the wineries that didn’t have anyone around them. It is enticing to stay in your comfort zone and only go to those you know, but I found that some of the wines and conversation I enjoyed most came from places I’d never heard of. Overall we found the table hosts to be friendly and willing to converse, even with the sea of people trying to make their way to the front. Perhaps the most pleasing experience was that there was no expectations/opportunity to purchase wine at this event. You were expected to visit many wineries and try several wines so there was no awkward feeling as you left one winery and moved to the table just next to them.

While we spent most of our time sipping and socializing at the winery tables, there was much more to this event that we didn’t fully experience. We happened upon the chef demonstration going on in the middle of the grounds but did not stay long enough to see the Sonoma Steel Chef competition. Other opportunities not fully realized included a variety of educational wine talks, guided tastings with nationally acclaimed sommeliers, and a demonstration of an old fashioned wine crush. There was so much going on all at once that there is no way to experience it all in one day...I guess we will just have to go back next year.

Shortly before we left we stopped by Gloria Ferrer Bubble Lounge, where we found some of the youngest patrons to the event. However, given that it was nearing the end of the day the offerings were slim so we made our way to the Visa Signature Lounge to explore the several cheese stations from local, um...what do you call a cheesemaker? Their offerings were delicious although it would have been a nice compliment to have wines to pair with the cheese. But ending with sparkling wine and cheese was a nice way to finish the day, much like in those fancy-schmancy restaurants.

A mix of both young and old oenophiles and a mix of large and small wineries made for one incredible day at MacMurray Ranch. The beauty of any Sonoma event is the casual, laid back approach to wine making and wine drinking. The winemakers love what they do and even more, they love sharing it with you.

Check back later this week for my next post about our exquisite winemaker dinner at Quivira Vineyards. Cheers!

Quality vs. Quantity - Chateau St. Jean Masters Both

We’ve all done it. We’ve all had that internal struggle as we stand in front of the wall o’wine at our local grocer trying to figure out what bottle will pair best with whatever culinary creation is in the oven.
Then, from seemingly out of nowhere a glimmer in your eye and you look to the far end of the shelf and see it....Chateau St. Jean. Whether you are in California, Oregon, Washington, or somewhere else, there is a good chance you have seen that bottle sitting on the shelf. For the everyday California wine drinker, Chateau St. Jean represents that little splurge you give yourself on payday. Many of the widely distributed wines are on the higher end of the all important under $20 price point. But don’t let the big name fool you. Chateau St. Jean, a pioneer in the single vineyard technique in California, maintains its identity as a maker of both fine wines and a maker of wines that appeal to a wide audience, rather than sacrificing quality for quantity. On a recent trip to the Chateau, Josh and I got to experience this first hand.

In the area for a conference, Josh took the liberty of setting up a tasting for us. We arrived at the Chateau at 10:30 and were met by the Hospitality Specialist Bob, who served as our host for the day. After a quick description of the tasting room we were led to the private and reserve tasting room where a small table for two was set up. Bob first started by telling us a little about himself and the winery. Founded in 1973, Chateau St. Jean has been a leader in fine California wines for many years. Just recently, winemaker Margo Van Staaveren was named the 2008 Winemaker of the Year by Wine Enthusiast. Part of her success comes from having worked in almost every position in the winery in the 25+ years she has been with Chateau St. Jean. Following the day of tasting, it is easy to see why Van Staaveren earned this esteemed honor.

As Josh and I sat down, neither of us knew what we were getting ourselves in to In front of us lay two tasting menus, one was the regular tasting menu and the other included all of their reserve and limited production wines. With few exceptions, Bob told us we would be going down the reserve list that morning, totaling 16 different pours. Yes, you read that right, at 10:30am we started our adventure of 16 very different wines. We started with two different Fume Blancs. First, was the 2007 La Petite Etoile from the Russian River valley. If this was any indication for what the day had in store, Josh and I were going to enjoy ourselves. The nose contained hints of lemongrass with a prominent scent of green tea. Upon tasting we noticed the tartness in this wine and immediately thought of grapefruit or some other sweet citrus. Having not gone through malolactic fermentation, the acidity and tartness of this wine lingered as it finished with a hint of spice. After tasting the Lyon Vineyard Fume Blanc we moved through Pinot Gris and onto one of my favorite whites of the day, the 2007 Robert Young Vineyard Pinot Blanc. This wine was actually off the regular tasting list but our host thought it special enough to pour alongside the reserves...boy was he right. Immediately we picked up on the intensely floral nose and it didn’t taste half bad either. The crispness of the wine was complimented by mellow flavors of melon, nectarine. This could easily be enjoyed by itself while sitting on the porch on a hot day with a good book, or enjoyed with food. Personally, I will be opening one of the bottles I walked away with tonight as a pair to a Thai curry dish.

And now on to the reds. While I would love to go in depth about each wine we tasted, there were a lot of them and I would encourage you to visit this landmark of Sonoma County and experience them on your own. However, I can’t leave you in the dark about some of the favorites of the day. We started with 3 different Pinot Noirs: Durrell Vineyard, Benoist Ranch, and the Sonoma County reserve, all from 2007. Each one different, I was partial to the Durrell Vineyard Pinot Noir. This wine held the spice you would expect from a Pinot Noir without overpowering the rest of the black fruit flavors. On the finish we got hints of black tea, leather, and bacon....that’s right, I said bacon! Two of my favorite things joined at the hip...today was a good day.

We continued through a the 2006 Estate Cabernet Franc and the Sonoma County reserve Malbec from 2005 before getting to the crème de la crème. A wine so great that even after 10 tastings, still stood out. This was the 2005 & 2006 Cinq Cepages Cabernet Sauvignon. A Bordeaux style blend of Cab Sauv (83%), Merlot (7%), Cab Franc (5%), Malbec (4%), and Petite Verdot (1%), this wine is the flagship of Chateau St. Jean each year. Since they began blending this wine in 1990, it has never received below 90 points by Robert Parker and in 1996 became the first (and remains the only) Sonoma County wine to be declared the #1 wine in the world. The flavor profile includes raspberry, blackberry, red and black currants, perfectly balanced with cedar wood and an earthy flavor. Josh and I enjoyed a bottle later that night and were quite impressed with the complexity of this wine. It is something to open on that special night or lay it down for another 5-10 years like I plan on doing with a couple bottles.

We ended our tasting excursion by jumping up the tasting menu to the 2004 Sonoma County reserve Merlot. What is so unique about this wine was the aging process. A blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Malbec, each varietal is aged separately for 2 years in French Oak before being blended and then aged another 3 years, totaling 5 years of aging before ever being released. Described as “liquid velvet,” the Reserve Merlot offers a profile of dark cherry, espresso, and bittersweet chocolate.

As you can tell, Josh and I were treated very well at Chateau St. Jean and I would highly recommend checking it out if you are in the neighborhood. Chateau St. Jean offers several different tasting options depending on what you’re in the mood for. While you do have to pay to taste at Chateau St. Jean, the wines and knowledge of the staff are well worth what you will get on either the regular tasting menu or the upgraded reserve tasting menu. While you’re there be sure to make time to walk around the property and enjoy the lush courtyard gardens that make for a great Kodak moment. Don’t be put off by the formal exterior of this property. Once inside, the friendliness and knowledge of the staff make you feel right at home. This was my first trip to Chateau St. Jean and I will be sure to return in the near future.

Cheers!

When in Rome...or Anchorage...or Dallas

For the past two weeks, I’ve been traveling for work – the job that pays me, that is, giving me the resources to enjoy my prolific wine hobby. The first half of the journey took me to Anchorage, Alaska followed by a 5-day jaunt to Dallas, Texas. When I travel, I’m a huge proponent of the “when in Rome…” philosophy. Unfortunately for me, neither “when in Alaska…” or “when in Texas…” experiences involve great wine. Nonetheless, I have some great culinary experiences to highlight for you in lieu of a wine review.

When it comes to beverage selection in Alaska, craft brewing is the name of the game. The first place I enjoyed some excellent beer was Moose’s Tooth Pizza in Anchorage. With a broad selection of standards brewed in house and the best pizza in Anchorage, there was a line out the door both times I went. Price = moderate. For great seafood, Simon and Seaforts was the next stop in the dinner journey. Their wine list was mostly Californian, but their mojitos are to die for. I had a delicious (albeit a bit undercooked) cedar plank salmon, but the real winner here was dessert. When I saw ice cream sandwiches listed on the menu, it seemed a bit simplistic. The product was far from that – house-made cherry brandy ice cream sandwiched between 2 chocolate-chipotle brownies. I’d go back just for that. Price = expensive. The final stop was the Glacier Brewhouse where I had fresh-caught halibut with some wonderful beer. An Oktoberfest lager aged for a year in Jim Beam bourbon barrels hit the spot with salad, followed by an Imperial Blonde – both brewed on the property. Price = expensive.

By time I hit Dallas, I was tired of traveling and also disappointed to find uninspired wine selections at most of the restaurants I went to AND bad beer. Yep, we’re talking a city with a penchant for Bud Light. By Thursday, 8 days into the trip, I decided it was time to treat myself and I did what any red-blooded American would do in Texas – find some good steak. Located in Addison, a city with the highest per-capita restaurant to resident ratio, Chamberlain’s Steak and Chop House was the winner. It was hands-down an outstanding experience from the moment I walked through the doors. As I was dining solo, sometimes service can be lacking or the experience awkward – not the case here. My server was always there at the right times, with a friendly demeanor and great recommendations. I started off with bread and a hazelnut encrusted goat cheese salad paired with Chateau St. Michelle Riesling, followed with the main course: a 22-ounce prime bone-in ribeye steak, prepared perfectly, complimented with sea scallops and grilled asparagus with hollandaise sauce. Paired with Chateau St. Jean Cabernet Sauvignon, the meal was nearly orgasmic. I wasn’t going to do dessert, but the staff knew it was my first time in and offered a complimentary glass of port (King Estate), so I said why not. With the port I had a crème brulee with fresh berries. At the end of the meal I literally waddled back to my hotel and fell asleep, satiated by fabulous food, great service, and adequate wine. Price = very expensive.

So – if you ever find yourself in Anchorage or Dallas, I hope you know have some ideas about how to best enjoy the food and drink like the locals do. Oh yea, there are moose in Alaska and cowboys in Texas. Yee haw!